Vogue 7630: fool me twice, shame on me. 

*reminder: all images you see here on sewitorthrowit.com are my own, and are not to be used without my permission. Thanks friends*

I’m just gonna tell you right up front, this one’s a Throw.

the pattern: Vogue 7630 Misses’ One-Piece Gown. No date. 1970’s? I mean, that’s some pretty serious cleavage there, the neckline plunges maybe like two inches below the bust point, right? So… seventies? I wish these things were just dated. Come on Vogue, I expect better of you.

 

The tricky part with this pattern is, you look at the illustration and you are like, “ooooooh, Sexayyyyy!!!!!!!”

But then you look at the line drawing of the back view, and you are like, “wait a minute, that is looking a little bit muumuu…..”

But then you look back at the front cover and you’re all like, “Hay Sexayyyyy!” all over again and you forget about that whole muumuu possibility until you’ve finished it and it’s too late. Here’s the back view:  

See? See how I should’ve known? Anyway. I made this up one time a couple years ago, as a sleeveless dress, and it was so bad that I put the dress on, looked in the mirror, took it off, balled it up, and threw it in the thrift-shop-box.

But this time around, I was all like, “I am informed due to my previous failure! I know what the problem was and how to fix it! I can beat this thing!” My theory was that the muumuu quality stems from the location of the drawstring, at the underbust, which, unless you have a very narrow ribcage like Madame Illustration there, is not a super slim area of the body. So I did this:


Which allows the dress to gather in at the narrowest part, the waist, and then creates a nice diagonal line leading up to the front opening where it ties in a bow just like the original.

Right? This is totally gonna work, right?

Wrong-o!

 

color is a little off in this photo
It’s still a muumuuuuuuuuuu! Oh my god!!!!! I can’t win with this thing!!!!

But the sleeves are good. And at this point, I couldn’t just give up, I mean, french seamed armsceye. French seams every-whicha-where you guys. So I took off the skirt and the drawstring casing, attached a bias wrap around sash.

 

paired here with a sparkly orange tube top worn as skirt hahhhaaahahah
 
    

So, it’s good as a top, but no thanks to the original pattern.

Just a side-rant here: the notches on commercial patterns, Vogue 7630 totally included, drive me crazy. They appear to pop up for no reason, unmotivated, and are super not helpful. My hat’s off to anyone who learns to sew by following commercial patterns: you are probably a genius and should totally get tested.

In the costume world, notches match to seams or to other notches. For example: when setting a sleeve you match the shoulder notch to the shoulder seam, and the double notches of the sleeve to the double notches of the armsceye, “double” being a symbol that all costume-shop stitchers recognize as meaning “this is the back”. So there’s no need to write “back” on anything. There’s no need to write anything on anything. A clipped notch is fast and unambiguous, none of this matching squares and circles business. How would you even mark a square or circle anyway? Do you have to draw a square or circle? Too much time! Especially if you are cutting multiples!

Rant over. Also, obviously I didn’t read the instructions, they probably explain the circle and square business. I don’t even want to know. Let’s talk about fabric!

the fabric: is all leftover pieces from saris, cut up for this musical theater thing that had a, like, Bollywood fantasy moment. The fabric-shopper went down to Pioneer Boulevard in Artesia, California, which is where you can buy yourself a sari, some tunes, and all the bangles. The left over pieces were in the wrong color for the project, so these wrong-color scraps were given away or thrown away, and a bunch came home with me. They are mostly rayon with metal thread machine-embroidery, although one of the purple pieces was labeled “100% rayon”, but 100% melted when I ironed it. I don’t know about you guys, but in my experience cotton linters and wood pulp do not melt. Lols, fabric label!

Just a beauty shot. Sheer! French seams! Color!

  

I was pleased to use up nine buttons on this project. Nine! So many!

Edit: whoops, I mean 15! 15 buttons! Six each cuff, three at the front. Numbers lols!

One of the major changes I made to the dress, other than making it be not a dress, is here at the cuff:

The pattern has you sew the cuff together at the top, and then do some kind of clipping shenanigans to clean finish the sleeve, which I think was meant to make it easier and save time but seemed way more fiddly to me than just making a placat and attaching the cuff the right way.

But on the other hand, the pattern calls for making a nice bias cord for the button loops, and I totally couldn’t be bothered to do that the right way, and just made thread loops instead.

Sew It or Throw It:

Throw it. The top is good, but the pattern: I plan to crumple it up, throw it on the floor, stomp on it, kick it out the door, drive over it with my car, back up, drive over it again, and then get out and pick it up and throw it away because dude, I don’t want to be a litter bug or anything.

Did I mention I also re-shaped the sleeve head and the armsceye? Throw it!

update 5/January/2016: the friend who gave me this pattern came over one day and took it back! Hahahhaaha! So, it lives on to delight/frustrate another contender.

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10 thoughts on “Vogue 7630: fool me twice, shame on me. 

  1. Those cuffs! Amazing! Would never have thought to do thread chains on a cuff (probably because my life is dull and I’m not the kind of girl who needs a multi buttoned cuff set up). It’s very Bollywood meets Rasputin….. I hope you wear it everywhere!

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  2. What a brilliant post. It is hard to believe that we repeat our mistakes (I have done it with men). I have always loved the envelope art on this pattern (but never seen the backside) which is somewhat different. The dress does look pretty amazing, although maybe a bit too Shalwar-esque in its first (or should I say second) incarnation. The blouse is brilliant and looks great.

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    1. There are scraps from three different saris in those sleeves! Sari 1 was orange with the edge dipped in purple, but wasn’t long enough to get the length of the sleeve, so I seamed in Sari 2, also purple, and then the cuff is the border from Sari 3, which was ombré yellow-to-purple, but wasn’t wide enough so I stitched the border to itself, which is how I got that cuff to ombré from purple to yellow and back to purple! Woo! So satisfying to use up all these pieces.

      Liked by 1 person

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