For the backstory, please jump back here. To feast your eyes, please read on.
This pattern has come a long long way, and many pencil lines and pieces of tape, from it’s early beginnings as McCall’s M6893
Above: the under bodice is silk dupioni, flatlined with linen. I finished the seam allowance by pinking it, and then (lost my mind?) hand-stitched each zig of the zig zag to the flatline instead of dropping in a lining. This way it is cooler —temperature wise— for the bride, plus cooler for me in that I like seeing all that interior structure, keeps the whole thing mechanically honest IMO.
Below: you can see the removable ribbon hanger-loops safety-pinned in (to be removed before wearing), the facing, a bone, the poly-grosgrain interior waist-tape, the exterior milliner’s grosgrain waistband, and the big clear plastic trash bag I kept the dress in whenever I worked on any small part. Clean Zone!
Below: neckline and center back of the lace over-bodice are finished with a folded bias strip of the over-skirt’s silk chiffon, machine sewn along the face and hand sewn along the inside.
Raglan sleeves. Dupioni shoulder straps with 1/4″ elastic inserted into the back 1 1/2″ for ease of wear during hugs and dancing.
Above: Bodice back view. The lace has a great scalloped edge that worked out just right for the sleeve hem. There’s a dance-gusset in the lace where all the underarm seams meet, again for the hugging and dancing.
Below: setting the waistband. The bride ended up covering the grosgrain shown here with a strip of lace from her mother’s wedding dress, which I think made a really lovely touch.
Above: Antique pearl drop in place of boring old zipper pull.
Below: Bodice, front view.
Below: trimming the chiffon hem with my totally hot appliqué scissors. This chiffon is a super sheer and almost irredescent weave that I usually hear referred to as onion-skin chiffon. I was afraid it would be hard to work with because it is so light and sheer, but it was actually really nice. Don’t fear the onion skin, you guys.
Below: the beauty shot.
Deets are: boned under-bodice in eight pieces, made of silk dupioni flatlined to linen, with shoulder straps; a lace overbodice with raglan sleeves. Skirt is a somewhat reserved A-line in floor length with gored French-seamed over skirt in onion-skin chiffon, underskirt in silk dupioni, lined in anti-static lining as I was a little worried about the chiffon and dupioni waging war against each other. Which they didn’t. Thanks, fabrics.
The only photos I got of me and the bride together are a couple of exceptionally dorky selfies, so instead of all that just imagine a beautiful redhead here. Looks like I forgot to take a full length shot of the back view whoops.
Below: If you like To-Do lists, check out these puppies. Oh hey, do you like my stationary? I worked on that movie. #awyeah
For serious though, I like a To-Do list. A lot of the things on this list are obvious steps, but writing them down means I don’t have to keep them in my head, plus there’s the Huge Satisfaction of crossing things off.
Below: the final To-Do list, after the final fitting. This list was made when I was at that point in the project where it begins to stretch into infinity, like you look into the horizon and all you see is dress dress dress forever. So I wrote down every single last thing, including ridiculously obvious things like sewing the hooks back on that I had just taken off, so that I could look at the list and know, for sure, that that was really it and when I had it all crossed off it was really really finished.
So that’s it!
Anyone out there ever been a guest at a wedding for which you made the dress? Did you secretly bring a sewing kit to the wedding in your tiny wedding purse? I meant to secretly bring one and then forgot, and then felt silly for meaning to and for forgetting and for feeling superstitious about the whole thing, like if I had brought one I definitely wouldn’t need it, but because I hadn’t, you know, what if.
But then I had some champagne and got into the spirit of things.
PS, if you are on the instagrams and you like seeing progress shots of sewing projects, I’m SewItOrThrowIt.