Advance 9967 HALF SIZE DRESS AND JACKET
No copyright date, 1960’s is a real safe guess.
I don’t remember where or when I got this pattern, I just know that every time I see it my heart stops a little. It’s not the garment that does me in, though,
It’s the art work.
Look at all the shades of black in that black dress, and the different line-weights and the occasional highlight in white and how that pink background —such a perfect complimentary color— isn’t a solid wash, it’s painted on with little spaces left bare, leaving a kind of glow all around the model.
I would have a hard time resisting any pattern presented this beautifully.
Fortunately I didn’t have to resist, because the dress itself is pretty ok too.
Interesting note about the pattern: it is a Half Size. Patterns don’t really do that anymore, in fact, I had to refer to my old sewing books to figure out what that even means, and the answer is: Half Size is specifically patterned for a short mature figure, as opposed to Misses, which is a tall youthful figure, or Women, which is a tall mature figure. I think basically it means petite with a fuller bust, which is not me, but whatever, I can work it out.
It’s wool, or possibly a blend, in this odd grey color that has both warm flecks and cool flecks. Usually I demand that grey make up it’s mind and be either cool or warm, but I actually like how this one is somehow mindbendingly both at the same time.
See how I’m not wearing this dress in the pictures? That’s because it doesn’t fit anymore. I mean, I can zip it closed, but actually wearing it anywhere would require a leaning board.
Sad, but ok. I’m pretty sure I made this in 2003, which was a dozen years and a baby ago, so it’s cool.
I could let it out, but ugh, alterations on my own stuff is the worst. I might actually rather diet than alter.
Anyway, looking back into this dress is interesting, I see some stuff and remember some stuff,
-The back neck stood away from my body too much, so I put in a second set of neck darts, which I like even better because they mirror the double waist darts.
-I took in through the bust on the dress, but decided it didn’t matter on the jacket since the jacket doesn’t close, and now I can see that that was wrong-o. Baggy baggy baggy. I could’ve helped that by interfacing the entire front of the jacket, but the pattern calls for a partial lining and this time I actually followed the pattern instructions and LOOK WHERE THAT GOT ME.
-I eliminated the dress sleeves.
-That blue lining was a bad choice. Too blue. Also too soft and sheer. Something heavier would’ve given the jacket better body.
-The dress isn’t meant to be lined, but because of wool I put in a full lining. Which has zero give. Hmm, maybe if I just let out the lining it’ll fit…
-Terrible job on easing the sleeves into the armscye. Either I didn’t read those particular instructions, whch clearly explain how to gather, then steam, THEN set into the garment, or I decided that was a waste of time and didn’t bother and now have yucky puffs forever.
-I love those double waist darts. They are hot.
Sew It or Throw It:
Sew it. A heavy knit would be great. Maybe even sweatshirt knit. Something heavy enough to be cool with that much darting, but with a little stretch for easy wearing.