Advance 9967: a sheath and a jacket and the best cover art of all time

  

  

 

the pattern:
Advance 9967 HALF SIZE DRESS AND JACKET
No copyright date, 1960’s is a real safe guess.
I don’t remember where or when I got this pattern, I just know that every time I see it my heart stops a little. It’s not the garment that does me in, though, 
It’s the art work.
Look at all the shades of black in that black dress, and the different line-weights and the occasional highlight in white and how that pink background —such a perfect complimentary color— isn’t a solid wash, it’s painted on with little spaces left bare, leaving a kind of glow all around the model.
Just wow.
I would have a hard time resisting any pattern presented this beautifully.
Fortunately I didn’t have to resist, because the dress itself is pretty ok too.
Interesting note about the pattern: it is a Half Size. Patterns don’t really do that anymore, in fact, I had to refer to my old sewing books to figure out what that even means, and the answer is: Half Size is specifically patterned for a short mature figure, as opposed to Misses, which is a tall youthful figure, or Women, which is a tall mature figure. I think basically it means petite with a fuller bust, which is not me, but whatever, I can work it out.

  

the fabric:
It’s wool, or possibly a blend, in this odd grey color that has both warm flecks and cool flecks. Usually I demand that grey make up it’s mind and be either cool or warm, but I actually like how this one is somehow mindbendingly both at the same time.

   
    
    
   

See how I’m not wearing this dress in the pictures? That’s because it doesn’t fit anymore. I mean, I can zip it closed, but actually wearing it anywhere would require a leaning board.
Sad, but ok. I’m pretty sure I made this in 2003, which was a dozen years and a baby ago, so it’s cool.
I could let it out, but ugh, alterations on my own stuff is the worst. I might actually rather diet than alter.
Anyway, looking back into this dress is interesting, I see some stuff and remember some stuff,
like:
-The back neck stood away from my body too much, so I put in a second set of neck darts, which I like even better because they mirror the double waist darts.
-I took in through the bust on the dress, but decided it didn’t matter on the jacket since the jacket doesn’t close, and now I can see that that was wrong-o. Baggy baggy baggy. I could’ve helped that by interfacing the entire front of the jacket, but the pattern calls for a partial lining and this time I actually followed the pattern instructions and LOOK WHERE THAT GOT ME.
-I eliminated the dress sleeves.
-That blue lining was a bad choice. Too blue. Also too soft and sheer. Something heavier would’ve given the jacket better body.
-The dress isn’t meant to be lined, but because of wool I put in a full lining. Which has zero give. Hmm, maybe if I just let out the lining it’ll fit…
-Terrible job on easing the sleeves into the armscye. Either I didn’t read those particular instructions, whch clearly explain how to gather, then steam, THEN set into the garment, or I decided that was a waste of time and didn’t bother and now have yucky puffs forever.
-I love those double waist darts. They are hot.

Sew It or Throw It:
Sew it. A heavy knit would be great. Maybe even sweatshirt knit. Something heavy enough to be cool with that much darting, but with a little stretch for easy wearing.

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6 thoughts on “Advance 9967: a sheath and a jacket and the best cover art of all time

  1. Yes, what a great dress and what a shame it is now a little tight. But I think a remake would be even better – especially with a bit of stretch – the waist darting is especially elegant.

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    1. For this I’m pretty sure I left the shape of the original armscye as it was. It’s clean finished it with the lining. Could be that I narrowed the shoulder seam so it doesn’t extend too far visually onto the shoulder? I can’t remember.
      The main issues with going sleeveless would be the depth of the armscye —checking to see if it needs to be raised or lowered, and the width of the shoulder. Without the sleeve these become visual issues rather than functional, so, you know, you do you.
      On a related note, did you know that for sleeves, the higher up into the armpit your sleeve goes, the better range of movement your arm has? Blew my mind when I learned that, I figured the opposite would be true, that you’d want that armscye far far away, but noooooo, you want it way up in there.

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      1. I did know that paradoxical sleeve thing – it does seem counterintuitive! I know recently when I left the sleeves of a knit wrap dress I made it was a bit saggy and droopy until I sneakily threaded elastic into my seam allowance (I’m like, SO couture) and I wondered if it was because I made no effort to redraft the armscye for being sleeveless…… So much to learn!

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