Simplicity 7229: 2016 does 1930’s via 1975, the slip remix

The pattern:
Simplicity 7229, MISSES’ HALTER DRESS AND UNLINED JACKET, copyright 1975 Simplicity Pattern Co.

Found this one at a thrift shop a long long time ago.
The brunette in the double-ruffled mint is my favorite. She looks incredibly cool to me with that giant white camellia and that shiny little flippy bob. Love her look. I’ve never made this pattern despite my great love of her look, mainly because the dress is a halter and wearing a halter means wearing a halter style bra, or going without, and I’m not that excited about either of those options.

Where are these girls going anyway, all in the same dress but different fabrics? Are they a bridal party? I was in a wedding one time where the bride gave all of us bridesmaids three yards of identical fabric, and we were allowed to make whatever dress from it, so the final result was a row of bridesmaids matching in color but with individual silhouettes. It was pretty cool.
Maybe a reverse version of that is happening here on this pattern envelope.

This project started while I was making that Anne Adams shirtdress.
I realized partway through making that dress that I would need a slip, and that all my other slips are dark colored or have the wrong neckline, so I would need to make a light colored one, so I went looking through my box and saw that Simplicity 7229 would be an easy conversion.
Plus I liked that this pattern is from 1975, seemed appropriate to pair with the Anne Adams pattern from the early 70’s.

But then I took that 70’s pattern back to the 1930’s:

the fabric:
Scraps of a heavy washed silk satin. They were scraps from work, but not a project I recognize. I can tell it had been dyed to this color, because there are a couple areas that are speckled with grains of dye. The original cutter had cut around and discarded those areas, and I was mostly able to cut around them too, although to be honest they were not bad. Real life is much more forgiving that the movies, as far as specks of dye on your clothing are concerned.

So here’s what I did: I used Version 3, but folded the halter shape of the bust pattern piece under until it looked like a slip, then cut a face and self lining like the pattern says to, and put that all together. But there was some ferocious gaping all along the neckline, so I took off those bust pieces and tossed ’em and had just enough fabric remaining to cut two more, making the bust a single layer, and finishing the edges with lingerie elastic.
Which means I’ll probably only wear this as a slip now, never as a slip-dress, as it is very lingerie-ish now.
Just to be sure, I tried it with a belt. Yep, definitely more of a slip at this point than a slip-dress. Could work with a shirt over top though. Maybe the Anne Adams!

Oh, I also changed the grain. The pattern instructed me to cut the entire dress on the straight grain, which surprised me because the dresses fit so smoothly and snug through the waist and hips in the illustrations, especially shiny pink View 3, that I thought for sure it was bias.
But it’s not.
But mine is. Just the body though, the bust pieces are straight grain as per patterned.

  

Cutting from scraps and on the bias means a lot of piecing. I was pleased to see how the corner from the back piece, shown above, meets the underbust seam. Looks downright intentional.

The straps are black grosgrain, with a twill tape laid underneath that I had to use because it perfectly matches the silk, even though it came from a completely separate source.

time:
I estimated 12 hours and did it in 9.25. Which doesn’t mean I was sewing fast, just means I need to keep working on making a good estimate.

Sew It or Throw It:

Sew It!

  
Vintage Pledge! My third #vintagepledge, and the first one that is a Sew It! Yay for that!

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12 thoughts on “Simplicity 7229: 2016 does 1930’s via 1975, the slip remix

    1. Isn’t that interesting?
      I almost want to make a full length bias version and a full length straight grain version, just to find out if there’s any advantage to using the straight. Almost, but not willing to sacrifice twelve yards of fabric to that experiment.
      Seems like bias would always be so much smoother, more flattering and more pleasant to wear in a dress like this, but then, I am biased toward bias.

      Liked by 1 person

  1. I love the simplicity patterns of the 60s and 70s, thats a gorgeous pattern I love the slip and adore that shade of gold (the colour of old money!)

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  2. Man, I’m really loving the fabric piecing in your bias-cut slips and slip dresses. This one shows me again that having to get clever with fabric (e.g. due to stains or just short yardage) can yield beautiful results… in the right hands. Such a beautiful slip.

    Like

  3. Nice improvising with the piecing. You do make it seem so easy. I love the pink view 3, so glam. Would you believe I’ve never sewn a bias garment? A silk slip is so luxurious, and the colour is glorious. Love it.

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    1. Dude, bias. Get in there. Flattering, and possibly empowering, in a “Bias, I Own You” way.
      You don’t have to jump right into the deep end with like chiffon or anything either, I have a couple bias skirts out of nice stable easy-to-work-with cottons that are great.

      Like

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