Simplicity 5986: again, with a surprise ending

The Pattern: 
This one again,
Simplicity E.S.P. 5986, MISSES’ SIDE BUTTONED SKIRT AND TIE COLLAR BLOUSE, copyright 1983 Simplicity Pattern Co. Inc. 

The Fabric: 
The shirt below is where this all this tie front blouse fun started. 
My sister brought this bird print shirt over one day, and was like, “Hey! Can you fix this?” 
She’s my sister, so she’s allowed to ask that. 
And I was like, “Nay. Forsooth: yon shirt is all busted.” 
It was all busted. The seam allowance along the center front (fake) button placket had pulled away from the binding, and the only way to fix it would’ve been to recut and rebind the front edges, which would’ve made the shirt too small. 
I suggested that since it was unwearable anyway she should leave it with me and I would make something out of it someday and give it back. Since the fabric is so fun. I mean, it’s just a regular ol’ poly crepe, but them birds is cute. 


The funny thing about taking apart one garment to make another of a similar size, is that it always looks like there will be plenty of fabric. Even when you know from experience that there isn’t, you still look and think to yourself, “oh yeah, this thing’s got sleeves and everything, that’s tons of fabric for a little top.”
And then you go ahead and rummage through your fabric shelves to find another fabric to piece in because you know you’re gonna need it. Plus you get an exciting idea about how to make an illusion neckline-ish type thing. 
Of the two projects I’ve done now using Simplicity 5986, this was the one I cut first. It was looking so crazy though, with all the piecing, that I put it aside and chose new fabric and cut and made the blue with red dots one first, to establish a control before going back to the fabric that got the whole project started. 
After the dots version was successful, I came back to this one, abandoned my idea of using the waist tie as the neck tie, cut a crew neck, made a fake center front, added some decorative buttons with clever spacing, and bam: it bears almost no resemblance to Simplicity 5986.


Look, 5986! Look how for you’ve come!
What I Changed From The Pattern:
So much. This one is:

  • Sleeveless, just like with the red dots version 
  • Pieced all to hell
  • No neck tie obvs
  • Crew neck instead of V neck
  • No center front opening, this one pops on over the head
  • No waist darts, used the waist tie from the source shirt, with some thread loops at the side seams to keep it in place
  • Shirt tail hem, just like with the red dots version 

All French seam everywhere, because they are strong, and fancy. 

Ok so those other pictures, with the backdrop, are styled in a For Fun Dressing Up For Camera way, but the picture above was taken before work, aka Styled For Real Life with jeans and a braid. 
And here below is the surprise ending:

Surprise! Sheer! Chiffon! The end is black silk chiffon! 
Ooh! How plunging! How daring! 

And there’s a bonus shot styled for real life with cardigan. 

This version took 10 hours 30 minutes, as opposed to the red dots version which follows the pattern much more closely and took just under 7 hours. 
That extra three and a half hours was mostly spent figuring out the best lay out and then piecing. The bodice front is four pieces of bird, one of black jersey, and the back is two chiffon, six pieces of bird. I am crazy for piecing. 

Sew It Or Throw It:
Still love this tie front blouse, even without the tie front. Still a sew!


6 thoughts on “Simplicity 5986: again, with a surprise ending

  1. In the words of Dee Lite, ooh la la la la la la! How satisfying! You know that little unassuming white skirt in the pattern might be really cute too in something swishy and drapey… Love a gathered a-line…..


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